Publius Cornelius Scipio is not a household name and yet it is the name of
one of the great generals of the
Mussolini liked to recall the power of the ancient
After the end of
World War One the balance of naval rivalries had completely changed. Former
enemies were gone and former allies started eyeing each others navies as
possible rivals. It varied from country to country. The Japanese Navy and USN
quickly started competing with each other, while
However, in the
1930s the cycle started all over again as the French navy built even larger
destroyers of the Le
Fantasque at 2,600-tons and Mogador at over 2,900-tons.
Again the Regia Marina reacted to the new French destroyer designs by
resurrecting the original design theory behind the initial Condottieri.
However, this time the design was even lighter and faster. As a group they were
called the Capitani Romani because they
were all named after great Captains of
the
The Capitani
Romani carried the concept of an unarmored, extremely fast
cruiser to such outer limits as to make the early Condottieri
designs appear balanced in contrast. They were basically very light hulls built
around huge power plants. The standard displacement of the ship was 3,686-tons
and yet the engines developed 110,000 shp on the two-shaft design. In contrast
the last class of Condottieri
displaced 9,440-tons standard and at 100,000 shp had 10% less power. The
original design called for a 3,400-ton ship with eight 135mm (5.3-inch) guns,
six 65mm AA guns, eight 533mm (21.7-inch) torpedoes and one aircraft without a
catapult or hangar. It was anticipated that the maximum speed would be 41-knots,
even with the provision for minimal protection to vital areas. As the design
matured, it was discovered that all of these goals could not be maintained. The
design was coming in heavier than planned and the two essential ingredients in
the mix that had to be maintained were the firepower and speed. Something had to
go. The aircraft, all protection and the 65mm AA guns were jettisoned from the
design and the Capitani
Romani received eight single
37mm/54 mounts for AA defense. The weight saving measures worked and the three Capitani Romani to be
completed all hit 41-knots during trials.
The
135mm/54 (5.3-inch) gun was a new 1938 design, which fired a 32.7kg (72 pound)
shell. The only other ship class that used this gun was the modernized
battleships of the Andrea Doria Class that had
them in triple turrets. The maximum range was 19,600m (21,430 yards). With a
maximum elevation of 45 degrees they were basically surface weapons with
extremely limited AA value. The torpedo mounts were of an unusual design and
very distinctive. Instead of the conventional four in line mount, each mount was
double storied with two tubes above another two with a total of four reloads
available. However, this unusual design was not a success as it suffered
frequent breakdowns. For ASW the ship was equipped with a total of 24 100kg
depth charges. Additionally, the ships were given mine rails and equipped to
carry up to 136 mines. In order to carry the maximum quantity of mines the
torpedo tubes and 4th turret could not be used. The maximum mine
capacity of the ship with full use of all armament dropped to 52 mines.
The
Scipione
Africano was launched January 12, 1941 and completed on April 23,
1943. She was the second of the class to be completed, almost a year after Attilio
Regolo in May 1942. After completion the Africano
spent a short amount of time at
After
The
Niko Model Scipione Africano
Although
the Niko Model Scipione
Africano is one of their first models, it displays a very good level of
detail. The lower edge of the hull displays a slight remnant of the casting
sheet but light sanding should remove this. As the original ships featured very
smooth sides, you won’t find a huge number of details on the hull sides. The
model captures the slight knuckle formed where the forecastle joins the
superstructure, whose sides were flush with the hull sides. There are very nice
anchor hawse at the bow and support detail underneath the six 37mm platforms
that overhang the hull at the 01 level of the forward superstructure. Porthole
locations are shown but only faintly, as there is no depth to them. I recommend
using a pin vice to drill out these portholes, otherwise they could be lost in
painting. The sides forward superstructure, around B gun position and the two
aft superstructure feature a good level of detail with raised hatches, a series
of small square raised windows. The portholes are faint and need to be drilled
as the ones on the hull sides.
As with most models it is on the decks of the hull casting that
detail dominates. There is a very high quantity of small, fine detail on the
short forecastle. None of this detail is overstated. The chocks at the sides of
the forecastle are extraordinary thin and fine and it is amazing that they were
not broken in transit. However, there was some breakage because of the very fine
and delicate casting of the hull. The breakwater has support gussets on the
forward and rear faces and these are exemplary in their thinness. Although the
forecastle has standard bollards, there are some features that are unusual. At
deck edge abreast of the A gun position are fittings that appear to be single
post bollards with a horizontal cross bar. I assume these are a variant of the
bollard as they appear ideal for securing cable but I had not run across them
before. It appears that larger versions of these appear between the anchor
windlasses and deck hoods for the chain locker. The windlasses are small but
feature the correct hourglass profile despite their small size. There are plenty
of other very small deck fittings and detail, some of which are apparently
ventilators. There is no wooden planking deck detail as all decks were metal.
Running to the rear and outward from B barbette are solid splinter
shields for the forward edge of the superstructure. These bulkheads are so
finely cast and thin, that they are translucent when put up to the light. Also
found at the 01 deck level of the forward superstructure are small lockers and
three cable reels. The reels are adequate but are not particularly crisp. The
rear face of the forward superstructure has two medium lockers and recessed
openings, which appear to be access points for mine storage. The 01 deck level
for the amidship deckhouse has a detailed skylight fitting. There is one
overhanging gun position on the starboard rear side of this deckhouse. This
position has thin solid splinter shielding, support ribs under the platform and
a small ammunition locker. The instructions show that this same position should
also appear on the port side but the port position was not there. I checked the
plan found in Profile Morskie #43
on the Scipione
Africano and it confirmed that a port position was present. There was no
sign that a position had been there and broke off as there were absolutely no
remnants of a break and I could not find a broken platform in the small parts.
Since the instructions show the platform, it is my guess that this platform may
have become dislodged when the hull casting was removed from the mold. The
bottom of the starboard platform is translucent, so it is very delicate. Other
detail on this deck are a ventilator and three more cable reels. Oddly, these
reels seem to have more detail than the ones on the forward 01 deck and are more
defined and delicate. Two more of these reels are found on the deck of the small
aft deckhouse.
The quarterdeck is very long, as it runs 60% of the length of the ship. The deck detail is dominated by the mine laying tracks, which run down each side of the deck for the entire length. They have a crossover with turntables just aft of Y gun position and sweep outwards over the side just forward of depth charge positions cast on the hull. Also running along each side of the quarterdeck are a quantity of twin standard bollards and the single post cross shape bollards. A few of these positions were broken. On centerline are the base plates for the two torpedo mounts. Small circular deck access hatches are also found adjacent to these positions. The position of the aft hatch is at variance with the plans in the PM#41 monograph. The reference shows this deck hatch on the port forward quarter, while the model has the hatch on the port aft quarter. This is almost insignificant and if this bothers you, the location can be easily changed by sanding the existing hatch and by adding a very thin slice of the appropriately sized plastic rod. There is a small cluster of detail between the two aft barbettes. Two positions shown as skylights in PM#43 could have been better defined on the model but in the large cluster of deck fittings at the end of the quarterdeck, the detail is very crisp. These details include deck hatches, bollards and other assorted fittings. At the extreme stern are two short depth charge racks with cleanly defined individual depth charges and a smoke generator in a centerline position.
Smaller
Resin Parts
The forward superstructure goes together like a wedding cake, one layer after
the other. The different layers of resin superstructure levels have good detail.
The 02 level has very finely done ventilation louvers, large ventilator cowls,
and doors. To give some depth the port holes have to be drilled, as is true with
the port holes on the hull casting. There is a very thin layer of casting film
on the bottom that needs to be sanded off before fitting this level to the hull.
There is a possible pitfall for the builder with this level. The hull casting
has no locator markings on the deck, so you will have to position it carefully.
The rear face of this level is flush with the rear face of the bulkhead where
the quarterdeck starts. Make sure that you don’t place it flush with the tab
on which the flying deck over the first torpedo mount rests. This tab is set
slightly lower than the deck edge so that should not present a problem. However,
use white glue to give yourself time to get the level on centerline. With no
marking lines, it is easy to make a mistake and have this level slightly to port
or starboard. Although there are no level outlines on any deck piece, other
levels are easier to place since they are smaller and more easily aligned with
the level below.
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The next level is the navigation bridge. You can’t miss it since
it has the prominent square windows in the bridge face. Detail on this level is
excellent. In addition to the windows on the front face, you’ll find assorted
doors and square windows on the side bulkheads. The splinter shielding for this
level is very thin and realistic. As with every level, sand off the slight resin
film on the bottom of the casting. Fit should be no problem as the flat bridge
face is flush with the flat front face of the 02 level. However, to give you
time to make minor adjustments in fitting the piece, I still recommend the use
of white glue. The next level up serves as the base for the forward director.
The top of the splinter shied on the front face has wind baffles clearly
defined. The front face of this level should be flush with the front face of the
navigation bridge level below. Then comes the upper three pieces of the forward
superstructure capped by the director. Look at the profile included in the
instructions to see how they appear from the side. The forward stack is the
smaller of the two. There is a good level of detail on this piece with forward
and aft steam pipes, vertical ladders ending in small platforms on the sides,
and a nice base for the funnel cap. The stack has the clinker screen cast as
part of the piece. Fitting the forward stack should be no problem as it simply
slides flush with the two large ventilators cast as part of the 02 level. Just
slide it to the rear until it is flush and make sure it is on centerline. The
foremast is a tripod of resin. It is very well done and cast on resin film. It
is very thin and delicate, so use caution and patience when removing it from the
thin film.
Over each torpedo position the ship has flying boat decks. The longer of these two platforms covers the forward torpedo mount. It fit perfectly on the tab of the rear face of the superstructure and on crane base of the hull casting and on the supporting legs at the rear end of the platform. The crane itself is a let down as the two pieces that form it are in resin. The gaps between the structural members, which should be open, are closed with resin film. Although it is possible to open these up with a hobby knife, the open ironwork crane should have been part of the photo-etch fret. Resin can never match photo-etch when it comes to portraying lattice designs. The aft stack is a really excellent piece. The piece has the stack house at the bottom with ventilation louvers and search light towers on the sides. In addition to the steam pipes and vertical ladders found on the forward stack, there are minute sirens on each side of the forward face of the stack. This stack is very busy as there are four platforms that attach to it. The side searchlight platforms and forward and aft AA platforms for the quad 20mm mounts.. The AA platforms are different in that the forward platform has a more U shape that will be flush with the forward face of the stack, while the aft AA platform has a sharp V shape that fits flush with the more angular rear face of the stack. Each platform has two separate support pedestals with nice detail. Again, there are no locating lines on the hull piece, so you’ll have to gage the right spot for placement of the aft stack. However, this stack is placed between the two cable reels on hull casting to the rear and a skylight fitting to the port forward face. Just make sure the stack is on centerline and that there is equidistant space between the stack and the reels aft and the stack and the skylight forward. At the end of amidship deckhouse there is a small aft director tower. Although the piece is rather small, it is packed with detail in that is covered with ventilation louvers.
The castings for the various pieces of armament are some of the
highpoints of this kit. The main turrets have fine detail such as the lines of
the facets of the crown, sighting doors at the front, access door at the rear
and extra front and side detail. The separate gun barrels have blast bags as
part of the castings. The odd over and under torpedo mounts are crisp and well
done in spite of their small size. The single mount 37mm guns are outstanding in
the fineness of the castings. There are four quad 20mm mounts that are in the AA
platforms forward and aft of the second stack. The barrels are exquisitely thin
and I frankly don’t know how Niko did that.
There are many other small resin parts to this kit. Ship’s boats for the forward flying deck and cable reels for the aft flying deck. Two ventilators are attached to the aft flying deck where it rests atop the aft deckhouse. There are a number of crisp carley floats that will be painted in the lively yellow and red scheme used by the Regia Marina for these fittings. In addition to the boats atop the flying deck, there are two additional boat positions on the sides of the amidship deckhouse. These are for the larger ship’s boats. The boat racks are in resin and are not bad but would have been better in photo-etch. Other fine small detail includes the searchlights, paravanes, binocular pillars, binnacle and other fittings. As a summation for the resin parts, the resin fittings generally are exceptional, especially the armament; the boat racks and especially the crane should have been done in photo-etch; and some fittings on the hull casting could have had more definition.
Brass
Photo-Etch Fret, Decals and Camouflage Masking
The Niko Model Scipione
Africano comes with a small brass photo-etch fret. You can tell that this
kit is one of the first from Niko in
that the parts mix on the fret are quite modest. Contained on the fret are life
rings, anchor chain, vertical ladder and inclined ladder. Since the provided
runs of inclined ladder do not have handrails, I would substitute another
party’s photo-etch inclined ladders with handrails for these parts. With their
later kits, Niko has greatly expanded
the type of parts that they include on the photo-etch fret. My one great regret
about this model is that the crane was not in photo-etch, as you probably know
by now.
Niko
includes a nice decal sheet. The decals include: ensigns, straight out and
furled; jacks, straight out and furled; masthead pennant and nameplates for all
three members of the class to be completed during the war. One unusual and very
thoughtful feature provided by Niko
is a masking layer for the hull to allow the accurate painting of the camouflage
scheme on the hull. Normal procedure is to paint lighter colors first. Since the
hull camouflage consists of a very light gray and a very dark gray, you probably
be better placed to paint the entire hull light gray before applying the
camouflage mask. After all of the masking strips are in place, remove those that
cover areas to be in dark gray. This will leave the light gray areas covered and
should give you the exact camouflage pattern after you spray the dark gray,
allow to dry and remove the remainder of the mask. Of course this is easier said
than done, as the mask has to be transferred to the hull, piece by piece,
starting from the bow or stern on each side. Also, the mask only covers the hull
so the painting of superstructure, turrets and funnels still needs to be done by
hand or with your own masking. No railings are included, so you’ll need 3rd
party (or is it 2nd party) offerings if you wish to add these.
Instructions
The instructions come on two pages. One page is back-printed. One side has good
line drawings in 1:700 scale of the starboard profile and deck plan. These
drawings will have to be used in the assembly of the kit, since they more
accurately show placement of structural features and fittings than the actual
assembly diagrams. Use the assembly diagrams/photos for the general area of
placement but use the profile and especially plan drawings to finalize specific
locations of the fittings. If you can find a copy of Scipione Africano, Profile Morskie 43, get it. The drawings
included in this reference show you all the detail you need not just to assemble
the model but to add further detail. However, you don’t need to have a copy to
correctly assemble the model, as long as you consult the plan and profile, you
should have no problem. The second side of this sheet has a gray tone plan and
profile for the camouflage scheme. All colors are identified by Humbrol number
only. The sides are Humbrol 196 and 67, which I assume are light and dark gray
respectively. The forecastle in front of the breakwater are Humbrol 34 and 60,
which has to be white and red for the aerial recognition barber pole design. All
of the decks behind the breakwater are in Humbrol 145, which has to be a mid
gray. The second sheet contains the assembly diagrams. These diagrams are
actually a series of photographs. The main diagram shows the hull and completed
sub assemblies, while there are 13 insets that show attachment of the parts of
the subassemblies. This could have been simplified as two of the attachments
show single 37mm pieces and two other simply show attachment of the gun barrels
to the turrets. Although the subassemblies are not numbered, the sequence of
assembly should be logical. You can proceed in any order but obviously you’ll
have to have the forward superstructure subassembly in place before attaching
the forward director subassembly. It is critical that you use the provided plan
for placement of ship’s boats, cable reels and some of the other fittings to
ensure accurate placement.
Verdict
The Niko Model Scipione
Africano
is a notable model. As their first cruiser size model and first non-Polish
subject, Niko pressed the envelope in
their model casting skills. Some of the parts, such as the AA guns are superb
and easily match or exceed in detail the offerings of other resin companies.
However, some parts done in resin, such as the boat racks and crane, should have
been done in photo-etch. There are possible pitfalls in assembly for the unwary
because of the lack of locator lines on the decks of the hull casting. However,
with examination of the plan provided and use of slow drying glue to allow for
minor adjustments, most modelers should be easily able to assemble this striking
replica.