sometimes say, "There are only two types of ships:
submarines and targets."
Although USS England (6 sub kills), HMS Hesperus
(5 sub kills) and others might have argued convincingly that submarines
could be both, a sinking surface ship remains the dominant image in most
people's minds of the submarine/surface vessel encounter. I've always been fascinated by submarines, and over the
years have modeled a good number of them.
One of my favorite sub kits is Hasegawa's 1/700 scale U-Boats set,
which in addition to the two submarines includes the upended bow and stern
of a sinking merchantman. I
had enjoyed building the submarines…now it was time for a target!
the bow and stern sections of the defunct merchantman were nicely executed
by Hasegawa, but the very small 2"X2" walnut base I planned to
use would allow only one piece. I
had some aftermarket photoetch anchors and chains I wanted to try out, so
I decided to use the bow section. Hasegawa
had depicted the vessel going down evenly with no list and at a fairly
gentle angle. The ship looked
like she was definitely going under, but the whole thing looked a little
too calm and orderly. I
wanted the scene to look really nasty,
so to heighten the drama I cut some of the hull away to increase the
downward angle and heeled it over a bit.
Unfortunately, this meant discarding the kit mast and boom assembly
which would now be under water, but the change did make the scene look
more dangerous. It also fit better on that tiny base.
came detailing the ship. The
little model was nicely detailed right out of the box, but there was still
room for improvement. It
doesn’t appear that the kit designers intended to depict any particular
class of ship, but there are fittings common to all ships which should
definitely have been there. An
obvious omission on the kit was the lack of any ground tackle.
No anchor, cable, hawsepipes or windlass were provided.
The first thing to do was to remove a large box molded in
immediately forward the deckhouse where the new windlass was to be.
A poorly executed molded in hose reel also had to go, with the
blank spot covered with a hatch cut from .010 sheet plastic.
the complex looking windlass assembly was actually very simple.
The basis was a rectangular box cut from plastic scrap glued to the
middle of the deck in front of the deckhouse.
The windlass arms were built up using a discs made using a Waldron
Model Products Sub-Miniature punch and die set.
By alternating the sizes and thicknesses of these discs, a simple
but intricate looking structure built up very quickly.
Each side consists of seven discs.
The only thing to watch here was to make sure the grooves on the
arms which accommodate the anchor cables lined up with the holes in the
deck. These holes, which
Hasegawa intended as locators for the ventilators, would now serve as
hawsepipe openings. Corresponding
holes drilled behind the windlass came next so the anchor chains could
disappear into an unseen chain locker below.
I had originally intended to use anchor chains from the photoetch
anchors set, but instead used chains from a Skywave accessory set.
These parts came flat molded to a polystyrene plastic carrier and
were a bear to remove. They
were even worse to work with once free.
Tiny and delicate, they broke into miniscule pieces as I tried to
bend them around the curved windlass arms.
Maneuvering them into position and attaching them to the windlass
was frustration itself. I
used up a lot of chain, many of the pieces flying off and burying
themselves irretrievably in my carpet.
Once securely attached, though, these chains did look more
three-dimensional than did those flat photoetch things.
next addition was the gun. A
common weapon on armed merchant vessels during the Second World War, the
5" gun atop the deckhouse was borrowed from a Tamiya 1/700 scale Enterprise kit. The
only changes were to drill out the muzzle and to add some photoetched
railing. The completed
assembly doesn't look too bad, but the barrel seems a little chubby in
this small scale. If I were
to do again I would probably replace it with streched sprue or wire.
The gun tub was made from a disc cut out with a standard hole
punch, the splinter shield being a strip of .010 sheet plastic wrapped
around and cemented to the disc.
topside details added before painting included a photoetch door on the
side of the deckhouse and a life raft borrowed from the Enterprise. The kit
provided ventilators, the faces of which were opened up with a small burr,
were installed in their new positions abaft the windlass. The bitts molded to the deck were improved with tops made
from tiny .018 inch diameter discs cut using that wonderful Waldron punch
the kit did not come with anchors for the hull sides. The bow upended out of the water made these fittings highly
visible, so it was worth spending extra
time on them. First, the hull
sides needed a couple of holes for the hawsepipe openings from which the
anchors would protrude. On
real ships these openings have thick metal collars to prevent the the
heavy anchors from chafing the surrounding sheet metal.
These collars were simulated by
wrapping suitable diameter copper wire around one of the Waldron punches
and cutting them off, forming tiny metal doughnuts. One side of each was
sanded flat, then cemented over the hawse holes and faired in with paint.
The anchors themselves, very delicate in this small scale, were
installed only during final assembly.
small improvement to the hull was the addition of a bullnose at the
forepeak. Virtually all ships
have this fitting, which is used to pass lines through for mooring or
inconspicuous, it is a detail almost always omitted on small scale models.
Its unusual visibility in this vignette, though, made it worthwhile
to include on this ship. It
was constructed much like the hawsepipes, but with the chafing collar
partially countersunk into the opening.
the ship was basic. It got a
coat of Testors Dark Ghost Gray (FS 36320), which is a pretty good match
for haze gray. After this had
thouroughly cured I masked a series of parallel stripes and gave it
another coat. The result was
alternating panels of subtly raised surface simulating metal plating.
The underwater hull red lead and boot topping went over this.
When these base colors were dry the ship was weathered with various
shades of the base color and with Testors Military Brown to simulate rust.
more delicate details came after painting was completed.
The safety railing was from Gold Medal Models Ultrafine railing
photoetch set. Made from .003
inch instead of the customary .005 inch thick brass, these parts have to
be seen to be believed. Less
than paper thin, GMM ultrafine are the finest photoetch parts available
for small scale ships. The
.003 inch brass makes for parts a mere 2.1 scale inches thick in 1/700!
Their delicacy makes them a little tricky to handle, but the
results are worth it. The ship was completed with a wire jackstaff and
next step was to sculpt the sea. This
was made from spackle applied in a smooth layer, a little higher on two
diagonal corners of the base to depict a slight swell.
After the spackle was about half dry I gently pressed the bow into
the still soft but no longer liquid surface to leave an impression.
After allowing it to dry completely I added some irregular texture
to the surface using a little more spackle, this time cut with water to
thin it. Then I removed the hull and allowed it to dry rock-hard.
the sea was simple, with
I was reassured later at a model show when I saw
a woman leaning over it and overheard her say to her companion,
"Honey, look at these little guys.
They're really screwed!"
What higher praise can a modeler ask?
a base coat of Floquil Navy Blue with Haze Gray mixed in around the ship
the froth caused by air escaping from compartments below.
(I suppose I sould have added some bunker oil as well, but it would
have concealed the tiny sailors struggling in the water…maybe the ship
was running nearly empty…?) The
sea got a couple of coats of Future floor polish after it was dry to give
it a high gloss. While the
final coat was still wet I placed the ship on the sea, bonding it securely
to the base as well as hiding the seam between the model and the ocean. When
this was all dry came the most fun part of all: the crew. These
were 1/700 scale photoetched brass crew figures from GMM. I like to include figures on my ship models as they add
interest and are great for providing a sense of scale.
Many modelers don't like them because the flat etched parts can
make for unrealistically stiff, Gumby-like sailors.
This is a valid criticism, so I bent the arms, legs, and torsos a
little to make them look more natural and glopped the paint on thick to
make them more three-dimensional. They
were attached to the base with tiny dabs of Future.
They aren't perfect, but I figured sailors jumping from sinking
ships, scrambling onto rafts or swimming for their lives could not fail to
add tension to a diorama! The
finished scene with ship, sea, crew and all measured a mere 2 X 2 inches. I liked the result, but wondered if it was too small for
people to even see it!