The WW2 cruiser HMS Belfast
is a must see for any ship modeler visiting London. You will have no trouble locating the
613 long cruiser. She is moored in the Thames opposite the Tower of London. Make a
day of it. Visit the Tower, then cross the Thames via the Tower Bridge and head for the
Belfast. The Imperial War Museum
administers the HMS Belfast and they do a
superb job of bringing her to life. The ship is in its 1963 fit, so the WW2 tripod masts
have been replaced by lattice masts, and there have been bridge alterations .
Otherwise she appears as she would have in 1943. And take time to admire her beautiful
4-color camouflage scheme before boarding the Belfast.
The visitor has full
access to most of the ships compartments. Start topside by entering one of the four
6" triple turrets. I was surprised by their spaciousness. Video presentations explain
the operation of the ships guns and many other aspects of cruiser life. The
presentations are informative and include sound effects where appropriate. Strap yourself
into a twin 40mm Bofors mount and live out your fantasy of defending the ship against
enemy fighters or hordes of London tourists. And dont miss the bridge. The
view over the forward 6" guns is breathtaking, and the audio effects simulate the
exchange of orders as the Belfast stalked the Scharnhorst during the Battle of the North
Cape.
The
most impressive part of the HMS Belfast
exhibit is in the below deck area. The IWM staff has done an outstanding job of depicting
the humdrum details of daily warship routine. All accessible areas are clean, freshly
painted and well lit. Life size mannequins inhabit some of the compartments. As you pass
the ships dental office listen to the whirring dental drill and the groans of a
rating experiencing anesthesia-free dentistry. The ships cat howls as you peer into
the pantry. Look down on the floor and he has a rat in his mouth. The cook prepares food
for the 900-man crew. The ship's surgeon operates on a patient.
Explore the ships many below-deck spaces. The shell handling and engine
rooms were particularly interesting. Contemplate being locked in the claustrophobic
punishment cell for insubordination. And note that there are no stacked bunks as on
American ships. The ratings slept in hammocks suspended from ubiquitous overhead hooks. My
wife has no interest in warships and merely tolerates my obsession. But she very much
enjoyed the Belfast. The human details made
the ship come alive for her in a way that my ranting about British cruiser design never
could. So bring the family and allow at least 2 hours for your visit, unless your are an
obsessive modeler, in which case 4 hours should suffice.